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 Woodworking Tips from Gregory Paolini
Information, Tips,  and Know-how for woodworking Enthusiasts

 

Make your own wipe on finish - Pictures coming soon

Text & Photos by Gregory Paolini

The number of products available to finish your woodworking project is mind blowing.  Home centers alone, showcase a myriad of clear finished designed to protect the wood and highlight the natural tone of the species.  Of all of the products offered, one of my favorites is a simple wipe on varnish, also known as a wipe on finish.
  
Wipe on finishes are great because you just flood them on, let them set, then wipe off the excess.  To think of it, maybe they should be called wipe off finishes, but that's another story.  Anyway, you'll see these finishes offered as a "tung oil finish" or a "wiping oil" or "Antique finish".  The only problems I have with wipe on finishes are: They're pricey for the amount of finish you get; More importantly, you never really know what's in these store bought finishes.
    
Every problems has a solution
The good news is, making your own wipe on finish is easy!    I've developed a simple wipe on finish that is very durable, a breeze to apply, and dries so quickly that you can apply 3 to 4 coats within 24 hours.  Here's my mixture for finishing success:
  
The Recipe
  
2 parts Oil Varnish
2 Parts Boiled Linseed Oil
1 Part Turpentine
1-2 cap full Japan Drier 
  
The varnish is the heart of this mixture, and provides the protection for the work piece.  The linseed oil helps the finish to slide on to the work piece, and improve workability.  In addition, the linseed oil provides that "in the wood" appearance that we all look for.  The turpentine thins the mixture, but flashes off without leaving the lingering aroma you get with mineral spirits.  And the purpose of the Japan drier is to create a catalytic reaction with the oil and varnish, and speed up curing.  The only down side of this mixture is that the Japan drier also limits the mixture's shelf life.  Only mix up what you plan to use in the next 3 to 4 weeks..
  
I like to combine all of the parts into a wide mouth pint mason jar.  It's convenient, because there are measurement indicators cast into the glass jar, plus the wide mouth makes it easy to work out of.
  
Make sure that the varnish is a true oil varnish, and not a "Spar Varnish" or a Polyurethane varnish.  The Japan drier will not react properly.  I prefer to use Sherwin Williams interior classics oil varnish
  
If you're mixing up this finish for an area where you'd like a little extra water resistance, then you may want to substitute the linseed oil for pure tung oil.  Make sure you buy pure tung oil, and not tung oil finish.  "Tung oil finish" is another mixed up wipe on finish, and not a true oil.
Applying the mixture
I give the mixture a good shake to combine all of the components.  To flood the finish on to the wood, I reach for disposable foam brushes.  Foam brushes are cheep, and I don't have to clean them when I'm done.  
Flood the mixture on to the pieces, and allow it to soak into the wood.  Generally this means allowing 10 to 15 minutes of penetrating time before wiping it off, which can be done with with any lint free rag. 
  
Between coats, I scuff sand the work piece to remove any dust that may have ended up in the finish.  I'll use a maroon color Scotch Brite pad, but steel wool or a fine grit sand paper works just as well.  Just remember, you're not sanding the wood at this point, you're just trying to knock off any unwanted dust.  
  
The first coat takes the longest to set up, but depending on temperature and humidity conditions, the first coat may be ready to sand in as little as 12 hours.  A dried finish will produce  powder when sanded.  If your sand paper pills up, that means the finish is not set up yet - Let it cure a few more hours and try again.
  
Under the right conditions, subsequent coats usually dry in as little as three hours.  And two to three coats is more than enough for most project, although you may want to add an extra coat or two on a high wear surface, such as a table top.
Safety First
Anytime you wipe on an oil finish, it's extremely important to spread the oil saturated rags out the let them dry.  Never crumple up an oil soaked rag and throw it in the trash, the rag could combust, and your shop could go up in flames.
  
With this finish, it's even more important to follow that safety rule.  The Japan drier in this mixture speeds up the curing process, and generates even more heat, making the chance of a fire from a wadded up rag more likely.
  

Now let's make sawdust!

 

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For your safety: Woodworking is inherently dangerous.  Failure to use power or hand tools properly can cause permanent injury or even death! The information provided here is not a substitute for formal instruction or education.  Do not try anything you learn here unless you are absolutely certain it is safe for you to do so.  If there is an aspect of woodworking you are uncomfortable with, do not do it!  Be sure to read any and all manuals and safety instructions which come with your tools, and always wear appropriate safety equipment.